Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Day 15: Bula Paradise at Likiliku

We woke early, threw on our packs, and headed to the corner to catch our ride to Port Denaru where we would board our South Sea Cruises ferry to Malolo island. We were totally expecting a local cab driver in some unmarked car to pick us up or to get thrown in the back of a pickup like Amy's dream the night before. We were shocked when a giant coach bus showed up to get us. We stopped at several hostels to pick people up and the bus was full before we knew it. We rode, in style, to the port and got dropped off at the boat terminal. The terminal was easy to navigate with signs everywhere and friendly people ready to guide you and help out. They took our luggage, exchanged our printed out form for a real ticket, and we were even left with a little time to grab a coffee and check out the Denaru shopping plaza. We boarded early to ensure good viewing seats hoping for sun upon arrival as it was pretty cloudy when we left and we kept saying all we want is sun when we boat up to paradise! We departed exactly at 9- sharp. Sharp like Switzerland sharp, no Fiji time on South Sea Cruises. We cruised for the two hour ride, past all the other Mamunca islands, stopping periodically, only for a few minutes to unload and load passengers and bags. Everything was efficient, even efficient for Amy's standards. (Jenna, you would have been impressed!) The weather continued to torture us as we worked our way closer to our home for the next two days. However, upon arriving, the clouds parted as if to welcome us. We climbed into the little dingy with two Italian honeymooners and we could see paradise emerging as we heard the traditional Fijian welcome song. This was truly music to our ears and eyes, warming our skin and our souls with the much missed rays of sunshine! We were greeted by the gregarious and outgoing staff with welcome beverages and necklaces. After a guided tour of the most gorgeous grounds we have ever seen, we went for a walk and photo shoot of the grounds as we waited for our room to be ready for check in. We relaxed at the infinity pool and enjoyed a piƱa colada. We met Susie and Mike, a great Canadian couple who were celebrating their honeymoon. They ranted and raved about the resort and the food, none of which failed to impress with flying colors! As we were chatting with our new friends, overlooking the white sand and coral reefs someone came to get us and take us in the golf cart to our first and probably our only over water bure. We drove to the end of the property past all the luscious garden and ocean front bures before heading down the private dock to the 10 luxury over water bures. We couldn't believe our eyes. We had only dreamt about staying at a place like this. We were escorted to bure number 9, our private paradise for the next two days. with every step, it got more and more incredible. If you went left as you opened the door you were in a giant bathroom with a stone tile shower stall and a double sink which had a glass window in the counter so you could see the reef as you brushed your teeth. As you looked right the whole wall was a bifold opening window with a two person tub. As you bathed you could open the wall and basically be on the deck with a pristine view of the reef. If you turned right, the bure opened up to a bedroom and living room. It was huge! A gorgeous king size bed said "Bula :) welcome home) in cut banana leaves. A perfect welcoming touch. There were full size armoires on either side of the bed and a full desk on the side. A couch and lounge chair separated the bedroom from the living room. A full bar, fridge, and coffee set up was in the corner and as you sat on the couch you had a perfect view of your private section of reef through the glass bottom windows in the floor. We were greeted by a blue spotted sting ray in the window, never having seen one before we were even more excited, if that was even plausible. The entire wall facing the ocean wasn't even a wall at all, but two fully slide glass panel doors so with them open or closed you could look out and see the reef, other islands, and gorgeous bay. We stepped out onto our deck and continued to giggle with disbelief. Our wrap around deck had two levels. The main level as you opened the sides was large and had two sitting chairs ands two full lounge chairs with wheels and cushions for extra comfort. There were then five stairs leading down to a smaller deck with an outside shower and ladder which led directly down into the ocean. Perfect for snorkeling whenever you got warm! We were in heaven. Other than meals, there was no reason at all to leave our private paradise! We enjoyed the afternoon bouncing between a few snorkels and some lounging on our deck. After enjoying the reef life we swam under the main dock, departing the reef and heading into the sandy bottom shallow water. We were on a search for more blue spotted stingrays. It was getting closer to low tide, so they were hard to come by. Right as we were about to give up, we found one. They are magical, so calm with such great contrast between their pale sandy colored body and bright blue spots, especially when they swim and expose the whitish color of their underside as they flap their wings. We watched him swim around and burry himself in the sand. We made our way back out to the reef seeing a colorful array of fish before climbing up our leader and into our outside shower to rise off the salt. We enjoyed a cocktail and afternoon snack brought to is by the staff while we watched a dynamic sunset. As we were overlooking the reef, Georgeann spotted a white tip reef shark. He was swimming directly below us. It was awesome! We also saw our first full on octopus. He was out and about. When he was lit up he glowed bright blue and you could see all of this eight legs as he slowly meandered from coral head to coral head. We've seen octopus before, but only their eyes as they were hiding in a hole or tucked beneath a rock or coral patch. This was totally different and incredible. We soon started to get bitten so we moved inside to watch the underwater world from our glass bottom floor. The marine life was attracted to the light shining beneath our bure. We had front row seats to the change of the seas as the day fish found a place to spend the night and the nocturnal creatures emerged. We took the pillows off the couch and laid on the floor, eyes glued to each new life form that came into view. We couldn't believe it, another octopus. This one was bright red. You could see its head clearly, it looked like a jelly fish. The legs were kept title together as it swam in and out of our spotlight. We got a pretty good video clip. We saw several other schools of fish including the mystery tripod fish we had never seen before. It was as if they were taking turns on the private stage below our bure and we were lucky enough to have front from seats. It was a perfect snorkel, you didn't have to get wet or require a shower:) Later that evening we headed out, walking the beautiful garden path, meeting staff along the way as we migrated to the restaurant. Susie and Mike were not even exaggerating, the food was nothing we would have ever thought to order, but was magnificent. We began with an amuse bouche of seared yellowfin tuna and wasabi sauce. It was divine, we had to order another two. Then our main course was a duck that was to die for, who knew we even liked duck?!? We also enjoyed a lobster ravioli. The entree was braised ribs and pork loin, garnished with sauces and vegetables we had never even heard of. Luckily, thanks to Pretty Woman, we think we used the proper utensils for each course. After desert we strolled back to our bure and relaxed in paradise again. We hit the sack as dinner was a relaxing 2 hours and we planned to get up early and enjoy every moment of daylight while we were hear.

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